Yana Vinetskaya. Exclusively to Vestnik Kavkaza
Vestnik Kavkaza is starting a new column about the history of resorts in the Caucasus. Beaches in Tuapse and Pitsunda, mineral resources in Kislovodsk, mountain ski slopes of Krasnaya Polyana and Guduari, mountain climbers on Elbrus, the sea front in Gelendzhik and resort houses in Sochi – all these images are familiar to several generations. But the Caucasus became a resort pearl from a distant and dangerous place only 150 years ago. The articles in the column will tell about history and development of the resort business in the Caucasus 100 years ago.
The Black Sea coast near present-day Gelendzhik was occupied many centuries ago, but the history of Gelendzhik itself was started only 150 years ago, while only at the end of the 19th century did Gelendzhik become a resort. One of key advantages of Gelendzhik was its proximity to Novorossisk, the governing town of the smallest government in the Russian Empire – the Chernomorskaya Government. Novorossisk had a big port which welcomed ships with tourists and a railway station where daily trains from major Russian cities arrived.
The interest in Gelendzhik as a resort was marked in the late 19th and the early 20th century. The prolific climate, health-inducing baths, absence of the malarial swamps which had prevented development of tourism near Sochi for a long time, the beautiful harbor and mountains of Gelendzhik attracted travelers and doctors.
In 1913 Georgy Moskvich wrote about Gelendzhik in his guide book on the Caucasus: “Several years ago only 3-4 families came here in the summer. Now the number of visitors is several thousands.” Contemporaries especially praised the sea baths in Gelendzhik.
Moreover, in the early 20th century bicycle sport became very popular, and the Black Sea coast and its beautiful sights and new roads attracted cyclists. Huge groups of them started from Novorossisk heading south. They rode the Annenkovskoe Highway, which passed along the sea through sparse villages and beautiful vineyards. The pre-revolutionary guide books especially recommended the Mikhailovsky Pass near Gelendzhik: “The forest kingdom is presented in all its beauty here. Forest is everywhere – to the right, to the left, up and down – it is growing up to the clouds… After the first big gradient, where you have to walk for four kilometres, you will say: it would be wonderful to see more such places. But on the way down you will be awarded: for five kilometres you won’t have to pedal.”
However, the development of Gelendzhik as a resort was prevented by the absence of apartments and necessary infrastructure. The people who came here didn’t demand an active social life, luxury hotels, clubs or concerts. But Gelendzhik could offer a healthy climate, beautiful landscapes, brilliant sea and fresh fruit and vegetables, for example the “healthy” grape. Moreover, Gelendzhik was a rather inexpensive resort.
It is interesting that the main role in Gelendzhik’s infrastructural development was played not by the local authorities, but by summer residents, especially the owners of cottages near Tonki Mys. The guide book of 1913 said that “development of the cottage district is speedy. Summer residents of Tonki Mys are united into friendly and wealthy society which does its best for construction of infrastructure. The society has constructed a sea-coast avenue, highways, planted trees along streets, organized a public garden, and an expensive concrete pier with a sea front.”
Along with private cottages and apartments, Gelendzhik took efforts for organized development of tourism. In 1900 the first private resort house was built; several years later there were three of them near Tonki Mys. Ahead of the First World War the Moscow Duma constructed a resort house for children with tuberculosis in Gelendzhik and established the social orientation of this resort.
