On the southern slopes of the Greater Caucasus mountain range, in the middle of the mountain rivers and blinding green meadows, Sheki is located.
This rich land has always attracted conquerors; but local people had never been fully conquered. Numerous rebellions against Arabs, Persians, Russians, and the Soviet authorities prove the Sheki residents’ love of freedom. They have always been not only craft workers and traders, but splendid warriors. Almost 15,000 Sheki residents fought in World War Two. Many of them didn’t come back.
Agriculturist Mikail Jebrailov, nicknamed Michel, participated in the war as well. He was injured and put into a death camp from which he escaped to units of French Resistance and actually became the right hand of General De Gaulle. He was awarded with the Legion of Honor – the supreme medal of France. After the war, he returned to Sheki, but the Soviet authorities didn’t welcome him, like others who were captive. The hero was deprived of his awards and sent to prison for 10 years. When De Gaulle came to Moscow and asked about his friend, the veteran was remembered. Jebrailov got his awards back and was permitted to visit France.
Being in Sheki, don’t forget that this rather small town is called the gastronomic capital of Azerbaijan. Be prepared to eat a lot, but remember that at any moment you can be tricked.
Like in the rest of the country, when a table is served, the rule of a finger works: there should be as many dishes as there would be no space even for a finger.
One of the most important cuisines of Sheki is piti. The course is based on lamb which is stewed at least for 8 hours. It is simultaneously soup and second course. Piti is served in a small pot. It is important not only to cook piti right, but also to eat it right. Piti is a winter course, but it is cooked in summer for guests.
Cooking piti is a gastronomic custom. At first bread is crumbed into a plate. It shouldn’t be too soft. Then, broth is poured from a pot. Sumac is dredged above it – it is a red sour spice used for marinating shashlik. You should eat it slowly. Remember 8 hours – the chef wasn’t in a hurry.
When the f is eaten, the rest of a pot is put into a plate. The same scheme: bread, sumac, everything is rumpled turning into squash. I should say piti looks very unpleasant, but you cannot imagine how tasty it is. When you taste it once, you will order it again.
Sheki is a unique place. It combines a virgin nature, a mild climate, a thousand-year old history, and wonderful people – good-natured, hospitable, funny people.
